What's the Best Video Format for 20-Year Storage?

I’m archiving family videos and want them to remain playable and high quality for at least 20 years. Which video format, codec, and storage method are best for long-term preservation and compatibility?

If the videos are already digital, keep the original files rather than transcoding them and losing quality. For an archival master, FFV1 in an MKV container is a strong lossless choice, while H.264 in MP4 makes a practical viewing copy. The bigger risk is storage failure, not codec obsolescence: keep at least three copies on two storage types, with one off-site, verify them with checksums, and migrate everything to new drives every five years or so. Include filenames, dates, and a plain-text inventory so the collection still makes sense later.

Don’t deinterlace, resize, or “clean up” old tape captures before saving the master, since those changes can’t be undone. Capture at the source’s native frame rate and resolution into FFV1/MKV or another lossless format, then make H.264/MP4 copies for easy playback. Keep the original tapes and digital files too. @neonserver411 is right about checksums, but remember that cloud sync alone is not a backup because deletions and corruption can sync as well.

The container matters less than whether you keep migrating the files. No hard drive, SSD, optical disc, or cloud account should be treated as something you can put away untouched until 2046.

FFV1 in MKV is a solid preservation master because it is lossless and openly documented. Keep H.264 in MP4 as the compatibility copy since almost anything can play it. I agree with preserving the untouched capture, but I’d avoid making the archive depend on a single unusual capture device, proprietary codec, or software license. Save a small text file with the capture settings and source details too.

For storage, keep at least three verified copies: your working copy, an unplugged external drive stored elsewhere, and a cloud or second-location copy. Run checksum checks periodically, replace aging drives every few years, and actually open a sample of the videos after copying them. Long-term archiving is maintenance, not a media choice.

A checksum only tells you a file is damaged. It cannot repair the file, so every checksum failure needs either a healthy second copy or recovery data such as PAR2.

For the preservation master, keep the original digital file exactly as received. For tape captures or newly created masters, FFV1 version 3 in MKV with PCM or FLAC audio is a sensible choice because it is lossless, openly specified, and recognized as a preservation format. Don’t convert already compressed camera files to FFV1 expecting better quality. That only creates much larger files.

Make separate H.264/MP4 viewing copies for phones, TVs, and relatives. Those are disposable conveniences, not the archive.

I’d package each video with a text metadata file and checksum manifest, then keep copies on at least two off-site or offline storage systems. Run a full verification periodically, repair from another copy when needed, and test playback after moving the archive. Optical discs and cloud storage can be useful extra copies, but neither should be the only copy. For most families, multiple ordinary drives are easier to maintain than LTO because tape hardware and software access become their own preservation problem.

Make a small test archive first and restore it onto a different computer before you commit the whole collection. If the process requires a specific backup app, account login, license key, or proprietary database, simplify it. Twenty years from now, ordinary folders containing ordinary files will be much easier to recover than a clever backup system nobody remembers how to operate.

For born-digital video, keep the camera originals exactly as they are. Converting H.264, MPEG-2, DV, or whatever the camera produced into FFV1 does not restore lost detail. It just gives you a much larger lossless copy of an already compressed image. You can create FFV1/MKV masters for tape captures, editing exports, or material that currently exists only in an editing project. Use PCM or FLAC for the audio. Keep the native resolution, frame rate, aspect ratio, color information, and interlacing.

Make H.264/MP4 copies with AAC audio for actual watching and sharing. H.265, AV1, and newer codecs may save space, but storage savings are a weak reason to make the family archive depend on them. H.264 is boring and widely supported. That is exactly what you want from a viewing copy. If those copies become outdated, you can regenerate them from the originals or lossless masters.

The missing trap here is encryption and proprietary storage. An encrypted archive is useless if the password manager, recovery key, or account disappears with its owner. If encryption is necessary, keep printed recovery instructions and a copy of the key in a separate secure location. Do not make a NAS RAID, cloud photo library, or backup application the only place where the files exist. RAID is for keeping a system running after a drive failure. It is not protection against accidental deletion, malware, theft, controller failure, or someone overwriting the wrong folder.

Use at least three copies, but make them genuinely independent. A computer plus a USB drive that stays plugged into that computer is barely two copies because the same accident can hit both. A more sensible setup is a working copy, an unplugged local drive, and another copy stored elsewhere or in cloud storage with version history. SSDs are fine as working storage, but I would not trust a single SSD left unpowered in a drawer for decades. The same goes for one hard drive or a stack of bargain optical discs.

Create SHA-256 checksum manifests, verify the entire archive after every copy or migration, and keep a plain-text or CSV inventory. Include the original filename, approximate recording date, people, location, source medium, and any capture details. Use simple filenames and avoid relying only on metadata buried inside a media library. A file named VID_0047.MP4 may still play in 2046, but nobody will know that it contains Grandma’s 70th birthday unless you wrote that down somewhere.

I would not treat “replace every five years” as a magic rule. A new unverified drive is not safer than an older verified copy. Check the archive on a schedule, review the checksum results, open several videos from beginning to end, and replace or migrate storage before the hardware or interface becomes awkward to use. The best practical answer is original files plus FFV1/MKV where a lossless master is needed, H.264/MP4 for access, and multiple maintained copies stored without unnecessary software dependencies.

The archive dies with whoever maintains it. Everything in this thread is solid on codecs and checksums, but a maintenance routine that only lives in your head is a single point of failure just like a lone SSD in a drawer. If you get hit by a bus in 2031, does anyone else know these files exist, where the copies are, or that they need migrating? Write that down in the same plain-text notes you’re already keeping for capture settings.

I mostly agree with @shadowpilot3527 on ditching complicated backup apps, and I’d take it one step further: pick the least technical family member who might inherit this and make sure the whole thing survives them opening a folder and double-clicking. That means being a little careful with MKV. It’s the right container for an FFV1 master, no argument, but plenty of relatives on default Windows or a smart TV won’t get it to play without VLC or something. Your H.264/MP4 access copies cover that, so it’s fine, just don’t be surprised when someone says ‘the videos don’t work’ because they clicked the wrong file.

One thing nobody flagged: the inventory itself has to stay readable. A CSV or plain txt is great. A spreadsheet full of formulas, colors, and merged cells is a document you’re also hoping survives 20 years of software changes. Keep the metadata boring and flat.

My actual take is that the format debate is mostly settled here and people should stop stressing over it. Born-digital stays as-is, FFV1/MKV only for captures and exports, H.264/MP4 for watching. The failure you should actually plan for is human, not technical. Attention runs out long before a codec does. So set a real calendar reminder, tell at least one other person the setup, and write instructions plain enough that they could rebuild the collection without asking you anything.

Don’t pack the collection into one giant ZIP or proprietary backup image, since a damaged archive can make many videos harder to recover. Keep ordinary folders with original files or FFV1/MKV masters, plus H.264/MP4 viewing copies, spread across multiple verified drives or locations.

Don’t let the drive format sabotage the video format. Keep originals or FFV1/MKV masters plus H.264/MP4 viewing copies, but avoid FAT32’s 4 GB file limit and verify that each replacement drive can be read on more than one computer before storing it.